What on earth does that heading mean I hear you ask? Its Bislama which is the native Language on Vanuatu and kept me amused for most of the trip. It means Big Saltwater Wreck (Coolidge). It kinda makes sense hey!
We all arrived at the airport at 4am! Well not all of us, after a few coaxing phone calls to Toni Lee we were all there by 5am! We checked in and soon we were on our way to the Coolidge. When we arrived we were greated by the ever lovely Yvonne and Tim (from Terrigal) who were the Group Coordinators for the Dive Operator. We were bundled in to the van and headed for Coral Quays!
After a lovely scrumptous dinner we headed off to bed anxious to be up ready and early for the mornings diving.
The bus picked us up at 8am on the dot and all the excited divers packed their gear on board. After some paperwork we all headed off to the site.
Our first dive was the intro dive that all divers visiting must do as a first dive and its a great dive to get acustomed to her. We followed the rope down to the bow, where the looming Coolidge takes your breath away we passed the anchor winch and one of the huge 3" guns stacked with live ammunition. We then enter into cargo hold number 2 first which is a full penetration dive. The first thing you come across is the barrel of Long Tom cannon, a 155mm Howitzer. To the right is the crew's barber's chair and doctors office. Continue swimming towards the back of number 2 hold over the tracks of an armored troop carrier. Now to our right, we saw four 155mm Howitzers wedged in the deck, including wheel carriages. At the back on the number 2 hold are the GMC trucks. From the number 2 hold, you make you way up one of the decks into hold number 1 where you see a number of Willys Jeeps. We exited from hold number 1 back to the bow.
I couldnt wait to see the looks on the faces of the other divers at the gear station. "IVE DIED AND GONE TO HEAVEN" said Demster! "OMG UNBELIEVABLE" said Toni and Mark in unison. "BRILLIANT" said Brendan "I told you so" I remarked.. I knew instantly each and everyone of them had caught the Coolidge Bug and were itching for more!
After the first dive we were back in the truck and were back to Allan Powers house for Buns and Coffee. Which I was very excited about as I wanted to see Jock the dog again after a few years growth. (we was a pup of 3ft tall when we were there last) And all I have to say is OMG! GIANT BUN LOVING, PAT STEALING ROTTI X GREATDANE! Lovely giant sook he is!
Mine and Lees second dive on the first day was ABC deck. A dive that weaves its way through A, B and C decks consisting of second class accommodation. We swam over and below bathroom suites with some confined spaces. The others were paired off and did other sites on the wreck with their own guides. After the dives back to the resort for a beer and dinner. Yummi.
The next day we dived the Lady on our first Dive and Med Supplies on our Second, both around 40m but requiring decompression due to the length of stay at depth. Thank god for those beautiful deco gardens.
Our third day of diving saw Lee and I on a trip to the stern. A 65m dive. We both swam out to the midship buoy and decended to about 25m and swan down the Starboard side of the wreck until we reached about 51m. at the Prop Shaft. At this stage I started to feel quite light headed and uncomfortable. I didnt feel like this last time and I have dived to deeper depths but this time I did feel quite uncomfortable for some reason....Gary our dive guide gave me the OK signal and I returned it telling myself to stop being silly. I followed him deeper a while and turned to see where Lee was. I could see a figure just still in the water and I thought OH GOSH he must be narked hes just staying in the one spot. I frantically gestured for him to come down, but no reply. My heat sank and I thought OMG something is terribly wrong with him. I went to swim back up, but thought I better tell Gary what is going on. I turned to face back down to Gary, and who is sitting next to Gary looking at the Name COOLIDGE written on the Sten but Lee.!!! I turned back at the shadow I was beckoning and chuckled to myself when I reaslied it was the prop shaft I was longing to join me! NARKED.....NOT ME!!!!.... MUCH.
I joined the other two at the Stern to read the Coolidge Sign at about 65.7M. My feeling of anxiety had gone and I was enjoying the dive. But when asked if I wanted to go and see the Life Boat I had the sense to say no! God knows who I would have seen down there! Santa Clause!
We moved slowly up the deck of the ship passing the Cargo Holds 6 and 7 and the Pool, Past Cargo 2 and 1 until we reached the line to go up. It was a long long time at Deco on this dive but we had a fun time trying to blow rings at the Deco Gardens.
After the usual Buns and Coffee and a little nap we were back at the dive site and Lee and I did Garys Special Tour. Garry is the most experienced ni-Vanuatu dive guide in Vanuatu. Once again it was back to full penetration diving, with lots of tight holes and spaces and no light to be seen. Not so much a deep dive only about 45m but very tight and very dark! Dont ask where we went cause I have no clue!
The next day we all opted to do the night dive so Lee and I decided to do Med Supplies for our morining dive. This is a dive of many stashes of medical supplies as most of them has air pockets and would simply float away. Weave your way through decks B, C and D to see medicines, catgut, bottled tablets, insulin kits, coloured powders and other medical supplies. You also drop into cargo hold number 4 where you see the drop fuel tanks from airplanes. Our exit was from hold number 2 cargo hold. then to the bow.
I was so excited about doing the Night Dive I could hardly contain myself! I just love this dive and can only explain it as being on a Magical Trip. With Lee buddied up with Natalya on a dive at Deco Gardens (due to nat not being able to equalise very well) I teamed up with Demster.
Now this is a night dive like no other in the world! Timing is critical for this dive as you enter the water just on dusk and approach the wreck without torches on. THAT RIGHT NO TORCHES! This unique dive is to experience the wonder of flashlight fish (Anomalops katoptron). The fish have a gland under each eye full of bacteria where they lift a little flap sending out a fluorescent light. These fish live in all the dark spots of the wreck during the day because they are sensitive to light. At night, they make their way up the decks, through the continental lounge and into the two forward cargo holds. We meet them in the Cargo holds for a site to be seen! Its like being in outa space just sitting still in complete blackness! Then out they come just little sparkles everywhere! I could hear Demster making noises of delight as our eyes were dazzled with delight! This is still my favourite dive ever on the Coolidge infact probably anywhere in the world and one I will NEVER EVER FORGET!
We had now finished our dives but we all decided to have pay for more. Lee and I decided to dive the control room. We dropped down onto the main condenser and then facing the stern we saw see one of the huge propulsion motors. You then enter through a small hole into the control room. Here there is a series of gauges, control levers and four brass telegraphs. We then weaved our way through the boat and came out the Chain locker at the bow. Once again long Deco times but we didnt mind as this was an amazing trip on the Coolidge once again!
When we surfaced, we noticed that Mark and Toni Lee were being very sheepish with their dive guides Tim and Yvonne. They had dived the Stern and I just thought they did some silly narky thing like call the prop shaft to join them. But no it was more exciting than that. Mark had grand plans for the dive to the Stern which we found out about later that night at Dinner. As it happens Mark decided to propose to Toni Lee at the Stern and had written it on his Slate! HOW ROMANTIC!!! She said YES of course!! Congatulations Guys!
Suddenly it was our final day in Vanuatu so it was off to Blue Holes and Champagne Beach for some fun in the sun! On arrival at Blue Holes the group was gobbed smacked by the natural beauty of the place! The fresh water spring was bright blue and the forrest that surrounded it was green and lush! It didnt take much convincing and we were all in for a swim!
Thats when Mark spotted the "Worlds Biggest Rope Swing" so we were told by a local!
Off he went like a monkey climbing vines and trees to get the best height he could and WOOOSSSHHHH and YAHOOOOOO SPLASH. Then up again and this went on for the whole time we spent at the Blue Holes. Crazy Man! Ha ha.
We dried off and bid farewell to Blue Holes and travelled further on to Champagne Beach. Once again what a beautiful site! white powder sand and crystal clear water! Great spot for our picnic lunch and relaxation!
And so that ended our most fantastic trip to the Coolidge to date. All had the best time and are busy saving for the next time we travel back there. Dem congratualtions on your achievements on this trip! Well done mate. To Brendan who suffered a bad shoulder for most of the trip, we hope next time can do more diving! Toni and Mark congratualtions on your engagement. I cant imagine a more perfect couple! To Nat, next time you will go to the Stern! and Lovely Lee my favourite dive buddy and hubby, thanks for taking all the lovely shots for us. For everyone we will be doing a DVD when I finally work out how to get the footage off the camera!
Belinda
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